A short while ago we reviewed a French Kosher wine costing less than $10. Now we will reviewi the same producer?s Cabernet Sauvignon, just in time for Passover. As you may remember, the Skalli family started in the wine business during the 1920s in Algeria. From Corsica they went to southern France in 1961, where they were among the first to produce single variety wines instead of blends. The Skallis make wine in the Languedoc region of southwestern France as well as in the Rh?ne Valley, Provence, Corsica, and Napa Valley, California. Towards the end of November, 2011 many but not all of their wine interests were purchased by Boisset Family Estates. Our companion wine is a Napa County Cabernet Sauvignon, also Kosher for Passover, costing about twice as much.
OUR WINE REVIEW POLICY All wines that we taste and review are purchased at the full retail price.
Wine Reviewed Fortant Cabernet Sauvignon Kosher for Passover Mevushal 2006 11.5 % alcohol about $10.
Let?s start by quoting the marketing materials. ?Tasting Note: Deep purplish/ruby color; spicy black berries, black pepper and minerals with subtle oaky notes; medium-bodied with a dry finish.? And now for my review.
At the first sips this wine offered plums and some harsh acidity. It was short but a taste remained at the finish; this is not a positive comment. Since I reviewed this wine prior to Passover Japanese rice crackers were on the menu. They served to step up the drink?s harshness. Slow-cooked meatballs brought out the plums that were lurking in the liquid. And partially tamed its acidity. When paired with the potatoes, the drink?s acidity was now OK. I tasted chocolate (but not Passover chocolate). The salad composed of broccoli sprouts, cucumbers, orange and yellow peppers, tomato, cilantro, and Portabello mushrooms thinned the chocolate.
My next meal cleared our freezer of packaged Baked Ziti Siciliano that I doused with grated Parmesan cheese. Now our southern France friend was round with light tannins and fruit, namely plums. There wasn?t much there. Fresh cantaloupe rendered the liquid almost tasteless. When paired with nut cake this Cab was very light offering a touch of tobacco.
The closing meal?s centerpiece was a baked chicken leg in cardamom, cilantro, black pepper, and garlic. This drink started off well but weakened, except for its acidity. The side dish consisted of okra in tomato and onion sauce over white rice. Now the liquid?s acidity was tamed. It showed a bit of chocolate and not much else. When our boy met fruit juice candy he virtually disappeared.
Final verdict. I won?t be buying this wine again. It?s hard enough to produce an acceptable French non-Kosher wine at this price. And going Kosher can only add to the cost. Double for Passover.
Levi Reiss has authored or co-authored ten computer and Internet books, but drinking fine Iwine with good company. He loves teaching computer classes at an Ontario French-language community college. His global wine website?www.theworldwidewine.com?features a weekly review of $10 wines. His European travel website is http://www.traveleuropetravel.com .
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